I promised you the newest adventure in the jungle ...
here now I would like to describe what a great adventure we survived, I would describe here as we have seen interesting things, like swimmin with dolphins, as I caught piranhas ... I would like here to describe a great and terrible animals that I saw in the jungle and inspiring meeting, which I had with an Indian shaman ... I thought a week ago, that the creation of another legend about it, what is the Amazon jungle is amazing and wpaniala. Unfortunately, not describe to you the above things. They simply did not have space! And on this blog, you can count on two things - the sincerity and truth. Describe to you what is taking last week happened. And I must warn that it is not a description of the nice and pleasant. No, if in the course of his writing did not change my opinion and really write what I'm going to write, and yesterday eight hours on the bus I wondered if I have to do it or not. But you can count on me. Sincerity and truth. I must also warn you, if you want to get away from reality, take a break from work, relax and read about the adventures of the jungle, you can be disappointed, and this description can you mess up on. It can also strace few readers, if you learn to read are people who just love to watch the pretty pictures and read beautiful stories and this history will not be beautiful - it will be bad, ugly, and in places too naturalistic. Because it definitely was not a good week.
Before we get into what happened, including me, who are less well know a few words about me, a few words, I do not know - explanation, a few words that can authenticates (?) This description ... Literally a few. So is an extreme rationalist, strictly analytical mind, first of all. Secondly, however - I am not a tourist capricious (do not think I have already deserved to be called Travelers), but I'm demanding tourist. Do not complain about poor conditions, do not complain about the travel for nothing, but not one already seen in my life (including many a jungle) and I have high expectations. Especially against the big expectations I had something like Amazon jungle. Especially after reading so many beautiful books on it ...
Only words of introduction. Let's get down to business.
Under the plan, until we had to leave today to fly to Iquitos and Lima, but in August so happens that we were already in Lima 4 days ago, and now we are already in Quito, the capital of Ecuador.
Before we went to Iquitos in August we had a few ideas how to visit some jungle. For the Amazon (and indeed at this stage of the proceedings, to the river - Ukayali) can reach the road - the village of Pucallpa. The Amazon basin and its barges depart, in this broad understood area are four big-city port - turn Pucallpa and Iquitos in Peru, Leticia on the border-Columbian Peruvian-Brazilian and further Manaus, Brazil. It happens because you can swim a barge between the two cities, watching the jungle in one of them and come back from there. We also we had a plan. Originally we planned to go to Pucallpa, and from there to drain the barge to Iquitos, but this plan was eliminated because of this that the road we met two people, whom coaches were militarily attacked on the road to Pucallpa (in guidebooks write that there is a danger and that he is happens, it turns out are right), and these people have lost EVERYTHING had, including the pants. We abandoned this route. Our second option - fly to Iquitos, Leticia drain barge and from there by plane to get back to civilization - This option, unfortunately, dropped out because of the high cost of the return flight from Leticia (400 USD, and the added value of the cruise was not really that high). Stocks we have chosen flight options Lima-Iquitos-Lima, with a trip to the site.
guides to configuring, you know. We went to the jungle the next day after those events.
discussed with our guide on how to get to our destination - there were two options: the whole route small boat peke-peke (such writing by modern canoe for a few to a dozen people, long and 10 meters wide and a half-meter, with motor on the back of the engine, very shaky), but it was a cruise up the river, a stream of the Amazon is really very strong, The whole thing was take several hours. The second option was driving 100 km to the village of Nauta, south of Iquitos. The road to Nauta was completed a few years ago, after about 100 years of construction (with interruptions caused by the situation of geological, economic, political or would be). Nauta lies the Marañón River. A few kilometers from Nauta joins the Marañón and further Ukayali already flowing together to form the Amazon. After we had Nauta doplynieciu to drain a few kilometers down Marañón, turn right on Ukayali, swim a few miles in the gore and reach to the same port as the number one option. The entire deal had 2.5 hours, skimp several hours, so I just chose this option. Moises, toilet guide, however, went with us, was our driver on the route to Nauta, also accompanied us on the spot in the jungle, though he was not particularly talkative or active. Went with us too, and perhaps above all, Rafael (our official guide) and his assistant. On such trips is always going in August with two guides - one says, guides, etc., and the second at the time running around the bushes, grabs wild snakes, machete cuts a path, jumps after fibroid Dundee alligators, etc. no longer saw, for unknown reasons, we do not went with us. Unfortunately, Rafael knew English very weakly (Dundee was much better) and generally was not particularly active or fascinated by the jungle tours, which also had an impact on our overall experience. In the past we have made purchases Naucie - water supply, spare batteries for flashlights, etc. There Snickersy we got peke-peke large, which splynelismy down and up Ukayali Marañón. Rivers in Individuals were gigantic and had the eye after mile in width, and merging were even wider, it is already the Amazon! The river is really an incredibly powerful, rapid stream, carrying with him a multitude of trees, bushes, etc, so sometimes sailing through slalom between them, because they can peke-peke our easy to crack. After about 1.5 hours we arrived to the eastern shore of Ukayali, a few kilometers from the connection to the Marañón. There we got on shore, we helped unload a boat Rafael and moved amenities (drinks, fruits, vegetables, meat, fuel) tens of meters inland, which way ran another, much longer Yalapa lower river, and there is another much smaller peke-peke, where we we got sailing through the next 2 hours and up the rivers. Along the way we passed a small Indian village (such Indians in jeans, not feathers), and an interesting place in which Yalapa merges with another river, whose name I do not remember. As it rightly put Rafael Yalapa color is coffee with plenty of milk, the second river is black, it is like coffee, where the river creates links A small pool, where water is mixed in two colors is clearly visible all the vortices Prada mixes like coffee with milk, next flows cafe latte. At this point too pink dolphins swim. Case terribly overrated. Wypatrywalismy their long, and suddenly shouted Rafal "There!" And there - the water surface slightly raised August, something slightly chlupnelo and disappeared. And so a dozen times. Delfina had not seen, but we can not say that it was not there, because certainly some several meters the water touched the animal ... As for swimming with dolphins is Rafael told that at this point you can jump into the water, but looking at her dirty surfaces feel like none of us are definitely not have. Later in this very place, "we caught piranhas" ... A boat trail through the jungle was really great, the way we observed plants that are here really amazing - giant trees, lots of species, lianas grow on trees, thorns, bushes, and sometimes even other trees. The shore looks not available - if we fell into the water long it would be necessary to find a place through the bushes and branches would be possible to get back to shore - a thick green wall Amazonian jungle. Also, if it comes to plants - a revelation. Along the way, no animals, we wondered - did not see any birds. Luckily the water was not mosquitoes, flew some sizable dragonflies. Sailed into our lodge'y. Along the way, for we passed several similar Yalapie. Lodge - it was a few wooden buildings constructed a half meters above the ground on stilts. The water was several meters out from the buildings, the river level was not high, but by the end of the rainy season swims directly below the terraces around the buildings. Amazon changed during the year depth / height of 12 meters! Surrounding the river less, but similarly, the trees we saw traces of the maximum water level, about 3-4 meters higher than today. Mainbuilding, about 50 square meters, the canteen (served to us with very good food, mainly chicken) and lounge at the same time, several buildings around the bedrooms with bathrooms. All very simple and tight and the boards. A few meters behind the gates of the green wall of the jungle. Terms fairly spartan, but it is precisely meant. The buildings had windows and doors mosquito nets, but they are merely a marketing ploy Chinese - between the planks in the floor are the large size of the hole on the ceiling (foil covered with palm leaves), also a huge gap, so all kinds of insects and so on without problems get inside. No problem, we expected that. It turns out that all of Iquitos tours lead already in the area. Each office travel (with the 5-10 guides) has its own lodge, which takes the tourists. All of them are picked up in a place where you can be up to 30 people ("We will go where only your foursome will be" just like that), here was about 20 people. Well, it's also not a problem, we met more cool people. On the spot in such logde'y eaten meals and staying overnight and it's starting point for hiking tours. Guides are available for - Rafael says, "we do what we want, we go where we want and when you want it. So it was, convenient solution. With lodge'y is the ability to reach a few hundred meters further - to "camp". This piece of film hung between the trees, and mosquito nets suspended under the branch and moskierach hammocks. Several meters closer to nature than the lodge'y. For this, a lot more inconvenience and mosquitoes.
there, the location. Unearthly hot, very humid. And millions of mosquitoes! Bzzzz ...... PAC! Mosquitoes were everywhere - in the cafeteria, in the rooms, in bathrooms, not to mention the fact that in the jungle was much more obvious. We expected this. Auuu .... PAC! We were not expecting that none of the three repellentow, who bought them will not be criminals! Spray a mosquito operates for about 30 minutes, then stopped. Mosquitoes attacked from every side! Bzzzz .... When eating in the shower, on the path in the woods all the time, from morning to night ... Auuu ..... PAC! OK, we knew it would be so. Unfortunately, my allergies become active the mosquito bites, which I had in my childhood, my blisters swelled three times more than other people's bubbles. Repellent does not work. Mosquitoes bite. Sun burns. Even when I was in the same short pants and then it flowed. Despite everything I'm wearing my long pants, T-shirt and Long sleeve. Boiled! It still did not help, small skurczybyki biting through my pants, the jacket waterproof, even for a thick toupee! Bzzzz .... PAC! A bubble swelled ... There I wrote that, apart from the flies were also mosquitoes, which zostawialy much more painful, and traces of various other flying and biting crap, I have no name. After several hours had swollen hands, feet, forehead, back ... Jad mosquitoes deeply felt in the muscles, even in the bones, allergy gave August painfully in the characters ... A cold shower helped, even though water is not frightened away bugs and made his next Babli in a new, undiscovered never before by any worm places ... Beep ..... We expected that the mosquitoes will be hard, I never expected it so much! That was always the next day. Spawned hundreds of mosquito bites. The whole area was a safe place - mosquito net over the bed. This linen veil, a Rectangular suspended five feet above the bed. Wraps the lower part of mosquito nets around the mattress, and no animal is not able to get in (unless the Tiger, right?;). Of course we had to screens every evening before bedtime purified from insects, but he comes in there somehow, Nevertheless, on the night protected from the bites. As I have said so much about the mosquito net is yet to write it - the mosquito net is still hot and stuffy than outside, linen fabric protects against insects, but also significantly reduces air flow. Mosquito is also the disadvantage that it is designed for people up to 170 cm tall. A man of my stature, freely lying head and legs sticking out on the outside, say in August highlighting the material. I was still in a mosquito net, but the mosquitoes have seen clearly where my head or touching her legs, sat there and cut it painfully ... Auuuuu .... And I could not do anything to them, as they were on the other side ... Position remained embryonic. But as a man sleeps, the muscles relax restricting August ... and so there was not the end safely. Mosquitoes have made these days a nightmare! County: mosquitoes - pshaw! We have mosquitoes in Tuchola, Lake Zegrzyński and a thousand other places in Poland. True, we have, but not Amazonian mosquitoes, not the quantity, not so aggressive, and not all have an allergy to their bites. Bzzzzz ......
In these circumstances, should come to us to spend consecutive days. It was hard, but animals that we had had to meet us reward the. Not done that.
first day we went for several hours trekking in the jungle. Boots necessary for protection against snakes and deep mud. Mud was. Did not see a snake. Spider or not. Any. Not a bird! Neither jedniusiutenkiego! Were to be colorful parrots, hummingbirds, butterflies, whatever! There was NOTHING! Oh, sorry, We saw a monkey! Actually, I saw just how vigorous branches moved, the guide ran towards them, ordered us to run quietly behind him. Branches dynamically moved in the opposite direction and silence. Emptiness. Have been plants. These were really impressive - Rafael was showing us, which are poisonous, which cures, which are most spines (thorny is really a lot, you have very careful not to grab a bad branch, does not snag clothing with inappropriate liane, or not resist at the wrong pien), in which there are drinking water, which we after felling the liana offered it. So - for botanists - is cool. If anybody prefers animals or insects - despair! For the entire stay we would not see any (nice), spider (no writes about ordinary, gray, small, whom on the walls and ceiling were the crowds), were it not for the first evening with Rafael brought a tarantula to the canteen and seated her on the wall, where he sat for the rest of our stay. We would not see any snake, would not Rafael brought a little to the canteen and other small anacondas venomous. Poobserwowalismy, some porobili photograph them, and they totaled Rafael. Probably keeps them in a cage somewhere in the neighborhood ... Any other animals! Profession in total and complete ...
evening of the first day we went to "catching alligators." It was nice to sail a boat in complete darkness in the jungle (it was less mosquitoes), but it was uncool, as they did with this show. 3 ice flowed full of people, pogasic told flashlight, keep quiet, OK that makes sense. In the bushes we saw the white bird! And as Rafael starts to panic somewhat, with a bird that we have podpynac closer, and pushes the bushes in the boat, do not know why - the bird was at the top, played a trick on. But Rafael wanted us to crawl through the bushes, and branches, doing your show! The excuse me, it started to irritate. Fluid human being the stream, not a broad, all stocks, we see how it will be something to what we podpynac is ok, but not rob this theater! Rafael waved his flashlight at all times on the left and right, searching for alligators. Forbade us to fire torches. Either SHIP flowed in the lower lateral arm of our rivers, we are sailing through continued for about half an hour. Very cool swam August This river, even without the animals. Night in the Amazon is amazing, unfortunately, jungle noises were disturbed by the sounds of the engine, which our guide shot back ... After half an hour we turned back, sailing through the back, sailed in the same leg, in which he had received a previous boat, at this point the bushes a few yards further emerged yet another. A short exchange between the guides - Are there alligators? Yes, sa. Affect in the same bush at all, Rafael comes ashore in rubber boots goes a piece of the bush and returned with two small aligatorkami in hand. After several inches malensta had. Sweet. I took a photo, totally disappointed in. That share was directed from the top ...
Another expedition from logde'y - sail fish for piranhas! Things going on! Sailed in a place where coffee is combined with milk. It is here that we had earlier surely swim! Are there can be piranhas? Rafael says that people do not bite, so I dropped a little magic moment. OK, we take the rod, taken earlier that day by Rafael from sticks, line attached to the rigid and the hook. Assume the hook pieces of chicken skin, it supposedly good bait. Rafael wants us to strike the rods in the water, it is supposed to attract piranhas. For an hour we catch nothing, emotions fell to zero. Along the way, change the location of the catches. In one place something szarpnelo my rod! There is no chicken on a hook! Here you are! We fish, again excited to see rod and line. Taking! Again, I sprang franca chicken! O NO! Catch you next time! Assume another bait, accusing, taking 5 seconds, jamming up the rod! There it is! I caught ... a small amount ... Rafael says that inedible, it took off our hook and released. Later, everyone grabbed a still after all, all powypuszczalismy. So today I will not piranha for dinner ... Another profession in ...
Another expedition from logde'y - sail on the small lake in the area, there may be some animal and giant water lilies. We were heading an hour, again, nice views of plants along the way, a giant tree trunk przewalony a river, sail under it. Some birds show up - it was one small, who reminded eagle, two white herons, little black cos it was in a thicket, and flew over us some black, crow. No parrots, no attractive colorful birds. All of these (well, maybe more similar to those) you can spot a successful even to Hawaii. Swam in the lake, large pool of one of the nearby rivers. We sail to the other side, the engine of our peke-peke frightens away all that lives ... On the other side really were giant water lilies, a really interesting leaf holds a few pounds, it was possible to lie down and not something drowning ... From the bottom of spines, lily, also spiked. Very interesting plant. But I do not only for producing plants such I came to the jungle ... On the way back we stop at the point where the hollow of a tree capuchin monkeys live family. Last August they were born young. Their hollow is about 20 meters high, small head protrudes monkeys, anything that moves. And so you see, mosquitoes bite us, and suddenly JEEBS! JEEBS! JEEBS! Rafael began to bang the paddle into a tree, lest wyploszyc monkeys ... Terrified malpka began with small bend of the nest. And he again JEEBS! I made a sign of these animals, but I went there with the generally prevailing style of Japanese visiting the jungle, and also took a photo ... Was there yet another group of tourists, who shot a photo of a female, so long as Rafael got hammered in the tree, despite our comments to stop, because the animals are haunted ... Besides the tree was still a capuchin interesting thing - the ants have made a path and bore leaves of a tree somewhere deep into the jungle. Clearly visible kilkucentrymetrowa was the well-trodden highway. Very nice. Next we sailed to a small Indian village, this for who previously crossed. There, the Indian showed us a typical house (on stilts, without some walls, under the thatch of babmusa, in the middle of the grill, a few people in colored t-shirts and jeans, children play with the tame monkey, sloth had too tame), cultivation of local plants and spoke to the center of the village, where local rostawiali especially for us with craft stalls. Unfortunately, nobody told us that we will to go to this village and that I take some money ... Some things were really beautiful, though in the bags, and so we do not have too much space for souvenirs. I regret nothing bought and came back to lodge'y.
Well, say - the boy complained, complained, and there they saw the cool stuff ... Well yes, but you sit a kompami before, so this may sound interesting, I sat in the jungle, the mosquitoes biting me, I had huge expectations. Totally disappointed, any interesting animals, no interesting insects, and puchlo all painfully ... We asked Raphael what else interesting we have a chance to see and what are the plans for the next day - said he actually saw all that we can repeat any of the tours, no, and were two points did not do - a walk through the jungle at night (sailing through ferry) and overnight at "camp", said to go out at night snakes. In both cases you have to deal with such a number of mosquitoes, that I could do not survive ... That day also from sin we have made the balance of days - much time has been for us to end the expedition, what else you want to see, etc. A short discussion and unanimous decision - evacuate out of here! We saw probably 80% of what is to see, the remaining 20% \u200b\u200bwould be paid for with big pain too - I will not be driving down to the "camp" on which not see anything more than I see in lodge'yi around, in order to brag about later, I slept in the jungle hammock ... I'm not 15 years old and does not need this. At the same time kalkulowalismy that if we manage to immediately catch a plane the next day it will save to Lima 4 days, within which we can see much more than 20% of us missing the surrounding jungle. We speak to Raphael, that we want to go back with us as a mosquito bite, that already have seen enough ... He said that it was impossible, with so many problems, etc. We knew that the next day come back to Iquitos Ronnie and Anne, two Germans, whom we met and with whom We went everywhere on the site. We said to Raphael, we do not want the money back, we just want to get out. Immediately, with a broad smile on his lips said that in that case there is no problem, and tomorrow we go ...
remained in the jungle for us to do one thing - already at the offices of travel to Iquitos, most of the guides talked about the fact that you can meet with a shaman and participate in something that's called "Ayahuasca Ceremony." This is a half-day session, which consists of meditation and concentration, combined with Indian singing Indian consumption of hallucinogenic drugs and foodstuffs. The entire run by the shaman, who introduces the client (for 100 PLN) in a trance and shamanic methods (vocals, put your hands, etc.) evokes visions. Visions of a beautiful jungle, wild animals, flying, someone mentioned the driving experience with Jaguar, etc. After reading "Rio Anaconda" Cejrowski and his descriptions of experiences and possibilities of "magic" shaman, I stated that I must try this, I need to check how it is really. Day before the ceremony was attended by an American, who was in lodge'y - affirmed all the above, spoke with was amazing and wonderful. So much of marketing. We had to go all, but Jared and Magda stayed to the end we have purchased stay, so they do it for 3 days and also Sin in the end gave up, I became so alone. Along the way, Rafael said that during the ceremony, there may be vomiting. I found that OK, somehow survive ...
how it all turned out, however, describe at the end of this already lengthy argument, because as you pass through it again now that I can not add to the end ... let's get to what was next ...
hours later we returned to the jungle with Anne and Ronnie. Peke-peke Mala took us to a village in 1.5 h, when switched to the large-peke peke for 2 hours and sailing through the Marañón Ukayali and Nauta. There, we got in we ordered (and paid) by taxi and we took 1.5 hours to the airport in Iquitos, where the Germans leave. We asked the driver in order for us waited over to the offices of Peruvian Airlines, has no offices, then the check-in - if you can przebookowac flight from next Monday to today? We could, and it's free! In Europe, it was impossible! We have 50 minutes to boarding. But our backpacks were in Iquitos, in the office of the voyage. We go to the taxi driver, he translate what the situation, we have to go there after our luggage back and forth, it was not included. For 15 PLN agreed, and drove through the city, were nervous, but finally, after 45 minutes came back and we made the plane. After about 8 hours after leaving the jungle we were back in Lima. PLN for 15, four days ahead. Unfortunately I will not be able to show you the photos from Iquitos, which is a very cool city was ... In Lima, we checked the flights to Quito, Ecuador, is our next goal - $ 650 a ticket, so We thanked, we will go by bus. Anne and Ronnie chose a hostel in Lima, went to The Point. Hostel turned out to be a place during parties, flew sharp dicho, in the hostel bar full of people, most of them drunk. We slept in a 6-bed room (31PLN, clean, tidy, nicely), but the hostel has an open door policy, so it was loud, it's hard to sleep, the sounds of the event. Tired of trip, and I further ceremony, quickly set sail. The next day there was no seats on the bus to the border with Ecuador, so we were visiting Lima. Turns out it's very cool city. I mean, the total is nothing special, but it was hot, there've been sweating like pigs, mosquitoes are not biting us, we drank cold Coca-Cole, and the Germans proved very cool people, they go well with them, visited by us. In addition, the way we met lots of nice Peruvians (in coffee shops in the market, and even at the headquarters of the volunteer fire department, etc.). Weakened after the ceremony but did not have any pictures, it turned out that I have difficulty with odychaniem, can not take full breath was getting short of breath easily, I was weak, etc. However, the day passed very pleasantly. We spent the evening in a bar in the hostel, a bartender turned out to be Australian of Polish descent, we had the sin rather stormy discussion, so we served a lot of free drinks, in order to alleviate the situation. We thought also about leaving the disco that night, but did not have enough forces already on it. The next day I woke up around 12-th, the megakacu. A 15-bus that we had (Cruz del Sur, 121 PLN, 19h) to Tumbes, the village near the border with Ecuador. An unpleasant day and night we spent on the bus, there also we met Zeid - American, who also driving down towards Quito. At the train station in Tumbes us more than a dozen well-wishers surrounded the Peruvians, who offered that will help us with luggage, will drive to the station, etc. One of them tore my hand baggage ticket to acceptance, pushed him, so he was pushy, wanted later, I take my backpack with cancer and help bring (niewiadomogdzie), thanked. They were very pushy and insistent, was the dozen, danger! I took out a knife from the bag, put it in his pocket. Watched backpacks, wallet. The Zeid were looking for taxi service, the crowd surrounded us, three huge size jegomosciow This led us to one of the taxis. Indefinite, no tables, taximeter, numbers, nothing. Take out our backpacks with cancer, and recoil from them. In the end forgive, they departed. Zeid says a taxi driver at the station who want to go, it says that OK, we decide on going with him. We pack our backpacks to the big trunk. He wants to get in, and here the front seat, jumped another powerful guy. Tell him, exasperated the situation, "Get out, do not go," and the boys with backpacks and change we take a taxi. You do not have reacted to this, not heard here or want to go. Drab front moved closer to the driver and says he get round into the three in front!! "What?" Get out!! " He got out in the end. The guys sit on the back, the luggage in the trunk (Combo), OK, sit down in front, hand in pocket knife. Before we left, one of the fellows jumped to the trunk station wagon, and let the other Zeid to sit next to each other and the taxi came quickly with us and three other great guys! Well, just before such situations obey in all guides, on the borders, in hostels, everywhere! Adrenaline! Once again, this time not so enjoyable! Firmly held the knife and I wondered what the hell with this knife I do when it comes down to it!? Surely no one dziabne! Zeid panicked started speaking in May where to go, to divert from the main tour, they went somewhere in the side streets. Show some sort of gate and talk to the station and that it is closed, we want to carry to the limit (25km)! It turns out that Zeid did not know where we go, but knew the name of the main street, we say that we want there. They do not, with a better knowledge of where we should go. Scream, the driver did not listen, waving his hand before his eyes and shows him which way to go. He mumbles something in English to the back, it suits him. We took the main street, to get them to stop at the first store, who was there. Luckily, it stops. Something to us crying. We on the understanding that I did not get out, lest they rode with backpacks, Sin and Zeid escaped safely from the luggage trunk, also got off, we are safe! Gentlemen, screaming, with so many problems, with 30 Salt of the course, and maybe we took the 5 minutes, this course was not worth more as a 5 Salt! They surrounded us. The portfolio I have only 50-TKE. Do not give them that, because I lose the last cash. We are on the main street, so it is already fairly safe. We started with them przekrzykiwac that in my life that was not any problems that we took 5 minutes. They got the 1910 Salt Zeid, do not forgive, screaming away. Small spill from the portfolio, was the next 7 Salt, I give it to them. Moments to retire and forgive, rode ... We watched the streets yet, or not come back, this time we succeeded, and was the subject of human and material losses, but we made a big mistake getting into the taxi ... Luckily, we only wanted to intimidate and would not use violence, and perhaps they wanted, but was 3 for 3, and already saw that we will resist! Generally, This was a very unpleasant situation. We planned to stay in this place, but we completely after the incident passed. CIFA's found a station, no buses to Quito, but it is to Guayaquil, departing in 15 minutes, 22 Sole, we need money for 2 people. We look at the map - not at all prepared ourselves in Ecuador, we know almost nothing about him, but it looked like this in a big village, close to the water, maybe it's too hot ... Quick decision - we're going. After 19 hours on a bus, then the confluence with no food, packed for the next bus for another 6 hours ... For the last money we bought biscuits and water on the road. It was no longer the standard as in Peru, Cruz del Sur buses. The bus was crowded, we were the only gringos there. In addition, bus stops in every village on the road. At every stop wsiadalo few people selling drinks, fruit, or asking for charity. Crowds of people and wysiadaly wsiadaly, danger! Firmly stuck backpacks, wallets deep closed. After 20-th, murdered got to Guayaquil, on the way I read the guide to this city is larger than Quito. Station looked like salvation - a big, well lit, safe, toilet (!), A shopping center next to the station, and the McDonald's - I always have any food! Zeid decided to accomplish a heroic deed and go away, Sin also wanted to, I no longer had the strength and we were there for the night. Morning we had to keep going. At the station, we caught some sort of grandmother and asks if you want a taxi, we say that we want, but with the same handle. She, as we watch out, because there is a lot of "pirates", as he said ... We did not need this warning already, we expected ... We go further, there full of taxis, each other, you had some wearing uniform numbers, and some corporations, however, so I came back to her: "Seniors are not a pirate?" - I wanted to make sure! "No, no, they're pirates!" We have ordered a taxi with her for 15 PLN got to the center. We had a Stalker hostel a few blocks from downtown, but the taxi driver, says he is a dangerous street (to confirm unbuttoned his shirt and showed us the scars there, which you apparently already has acquired in August) and says that he knows better hostel closer. Atlantic Suite, is expensive, run out of the cab, ask about the price, 45 PLN per person, from a distance-measure looks decent, so I decide. I crash on the bed, air conditioning switched on at maximum level, joined in the TV "Leona pro" - is wonderful! I go to the bathroom, wants to take a shower - and there ... cockroaches! And run in a shell, run the shower curtain, the curtain began waving, noise and light to scare them. We did not want to further combinations of drives in the jungle become accustomed, so we stayed. Morning, we go further, so as we want to see something from this city, is tonight. About 22 we left the city center, a stunning modern river walk, a district of Las Penas - hill, 460 stairs up the hill district of art and café, as a piece of clubs, pubs and discos full of local, no tourists. A pleasant walk, a pleasant city center, but nothing special. The next morning we drive to the station, we decided to choose a better bus than the last, nothing could have found, we chose the same company, again, 22 PLN. I went Seat number 3 in the first row, right next to the driver and a little behind him, like we hit something, the first'm flying through the windshield. The driver of a madman, yet with such an idiot in my life not driven by the serpentine top over abyssies ahead of the third, I cut corners behind whom he saw nothing and went almost without using the brakes, people were standing between the rows, the bus flew like sacks of potatoes, a few person vomit ... I wondered if I did not get off, I had had enough of the negative impressions this week, but no we were ... Do we set up in August, but the keel situation was very serious and unpleasant. It turned out that the bus is not going to Quito, though, that so was written on our ticket. Stopped in Riobamba. There, the driver bought us a ticket for the bus at another company, gave him a smile and thanked for the trip. I go to the bathroom, getting your first need, and here you are not tall thick standing at the urinal next to the swings at me, annihilation and asks, "Can I touch you?"! Well no, that's too much! May this week will end! I did not agree that there was, after washing hands and dropped the toilet sooner. OK, maybe this shit just sits in my mind, maybe I gravitate these disasters? We must change the approach, the last event will treat you just as a compliment! :) The next bus was more convenient, does not stop everywhere, and the driver driving down peacefully. We got to Quito after the 22-iej. The station, food, good this time (rice, fries, pork chop, 9 PLN). I'm counting money, were 21 PLN (7USD). We chose a hostel in the center, go to the terminal, the taxi, say, with the center for 24 PLN ($ 8). Nobody wants to be Take the 21st .. We go to the last taxi, maybe this will agree, the way someone bothers us, says he will go for the 21st We evaluate the gentleman, a small, probably harmless, OK, let's go. We got. Grinn House Hostel, taxi driver says that street next to it is very dangerous and that there did not walk. Hostel also for 21 PLN, will pay tomorrow, no doubles, load the 8-person room, but empty. Quiet, calm, clean bathroom, scented bedding, pleasant coolness (Quito lies at 2,800 meters), thick warm blanket. Despite this, and maybe just by an inch, this tiring journey (33h in the past three days on buses from Lima) and the accumulation of negative emotions from the whole week, I could not sleep. And can by Lari ...?
Remaining to describe the one outstanding thing. CEREMONY AYAHUASCA. You just sit on 4 hours at an internet cafe in Quito and describe to you what happened lately, the sun shines zawnatrz nicely, I could go outside, drink beer, relax and spend nice time somehow. But you describe it, although it is not will be pleasant for me or for you ...
Think back to the jungle. Again a hot, humid, mosquito-tna ...
I was hopeful, though also full of uncertainties about the impact which this will have a ceremony for me. Were to be beautiful visions. Believe it, I was ready. Rafael gave me a shaman, who arrived for me that day to our lodge'y. He was a senior Indian, with a very nice smile, though without some teeth. Dressed completely ordinary, but maybe after I already knew from a shaman, it seemed to him such a beating from some sort of goodness, I thought that maybe has some sort of power ... That day was the failure of sewage lodge'y highlighted the evening, so renovation was taking place in the darkness, I mean under artificial light and loud sounds of terkoczacych issued by the electricity generator. The ceremony was to begin immediately after dinner, where I still have not eaten, because of possible side effects ceremony in the form of vomiting. Builders lasted long, up to 2 hours after dinner, sat myself at this time with a shaman in silence in the cafeteria, he watched the emptiness, I watched him and tame tarantulas Raphael, who slowly walked to the wall. Odganialem mosquitoes. And so it lasted two hours before deactivated noisy generators and lights extinguished. In the meantime, I started to my eyes shut, I was tired, everyone else already in the majority went to sleep. We sat down with szamenem opposite each other on the floor hut, slightly aloof. Shaman prygotowal himself and props - I laid the plastic next to a bowl, dressed colorful plumes, umalowal face. On the ground spread out 3 bottles with different liquids, sticks of cane-rattle, a small bowl, candle, a bag with cigarettes and matches. With curiosity I looked at what he does and I started to wonder what I am doing here. I was tired, I sat on the floor, biting mosquitoes me, I thought for a moment, that I would already lying around on your screens in a secure fetal position ... No, but since I'm already here, since so many of the hang, I paid for it, especially the shaman arrived, it already is let '. And if we do, then I need to change the attitude, I have to want that to happen and I managed to concentrate. Yes he did. Odganiajac mosquitoes and trying to forget about spiders on the walls and ceiling, I observed intently shaman preparing for the ceremony. Gave me brief instructions - I sit, be calm, focused, and will be OK. I have nothing to do. So they both sat cross-legged in the darkness, lit only by kaganku, which illuminated the narrow circle around us. Shaman ceremonies began, he started to whisper, to my surprise I heard a few words of the prayers of the Christian Santa Maria, Alleluia, Amen. After a while he started to sing, very rhythmic, repetitive syllables. Every now and then little bit louder, just more quietly, under one's breath the whole time. I thought that guy starts to do really cool atmosphere! Several times he shook his reed sticks adding to slow rattling sound. After this introduction, lit a cigarette. Offered me, I asked what it says, with ordinary tobacco. Do not smoke cigarettes, but I lit it. Nothing special, but I think were quite strong. Not taken in August, rather I used to smoke odganiania mosquitoes, such as shaman, worked. Later, while still wailing and chanting and shaman reached for a bottle lying in front of him. I was curious as to what will be next. In one of the bottles was some strong liquid like Mint. Shaman nasmarowal hands it to me, the tip of the head and neck, worked very refreshing. On the other bottle poured into a bowl disgusting-looking brown, oily liquid, about 100ml. He ordered me to drink. A moment of reflection. No, but surely it is here I am, thousands of people were doing it before me ... The American, who went through the ceremonies on previously told me about this liquid, the bad, but at the same time it is possible to drink a bowl an inch and is OK. I drank a whole on a time, tilting the bowl to the end. I felt like oily husband slowly pouring through my throat to the stomach. Bad. "I do not vomit, well!" - I thought. Shaman poured a full cup and drank equally fast. Rocked slightly in August and watched me. After a while he started to sing more, very rhythmic, very evenly, to that from time to time be adding rattles and sticks-butted in the singing of the word "con-cen-tra-to" and "tran-qui-lo", focus and calm. I thought that a little funny and silly situation. You sit here together, I look at him, he's now with eyes closed singing something and waving sticks of cane, even though such thoughts I tried concentrate. I sat cross-legged on the change of hands I held based on their knees or the back of the floor based on basing sore back on his shoulders. Shaman blew out the candle. It became totally dark, we all slept for sure, no lights, no sounds. Only the singing shaman rattles and noises jungle behind the walls - the cicadas ... As the light went out again, I did get tired, but I tried to concentrate, in the dark was much easier. Cicadas, singing, rattle, darkness, concentration, focus, focus ... first floor caved in! Hands, which I had based on the back of the floor suddenly lost their support, the board is away, I felt like I was on the raft, which rocks on the waves. Very nice - I thought! But it works! I started to wag slightly with the waves and expect results. Concentration! Concentration! Vocals, rattles and cicadas! Trawalo are another dozen minutes. Repeated rhythmic singing had become little enjoyable and tiring, I found that I need to stop thinking about it, concentrate, go deeper into the trans who slowly come by. Surely the shaman told me to, repetitive "con-cen-tra-a, con-cen-tra-a, con-cen-tra-do"! Shaman smoked a cigarette, his red, glowing in the absolute darkness Tip moved in circles, he drew designs. Initially it was a moving point, after some time left over for a point streak, later, long lines and abstract patterns. I concentrated, I wanted to enter the deeper, feel what they felt all before me, who do it. I imagined the jungle, the jaguar, condor. I was trying to summon the power of visions about which you heard, not coming out to me. I concentrated on. Then I threw up the first time. Shortly later, the second and third. Luckily, the bowl was near. The shaman says that is ok, with it's normal that I have to concentrate, I'll continue trying. suddenly felt completely relaxed and relaxed, it was great. Next sailed on a raft, floated in the air and flew. Pode me jungle. It was wonderful. threw up again. And again! A bit too much! No longer wants to enter, in a deeper, this is right, do not want to continue. But I felt that I go deeper and deeper into a trance against their will, I started this fight, unnecessarily, sank more and more ... I can not fight, so will be worse, please concentrate, skoncetruj August ... Long red lines drawn by the shaman's circle swung, the smoke absorbed me, I began to draw the circle, flew by him ... I was flying over the jungle, initially relaxed. After a while it got dark, dim. The jungle had become dark, dark and evil. I feel the drug was seized ... Shaman still drew abstract patterns Tip cigarette designs began to blur in the air and sway from side to side, stretch and narrow. shaman inhaled cigarette rozrzarzona Tip illuminated his face. shaman's face was evil, he looked at me with empty slepiami, fangs bared! threw up again. And again. "Con-cen-tra-a, con-cen-tra-a, con-cen-tra-do" I began to see patterns in the drawings created by shaman - were a Native American masks, models, sculptures, views of Indian cities in ruins, Machu Picchu at night, dark and murky, spread to and shrunk along with the smoke, then sunk into darkness ... Someone entered the room in which sat and started to shine the torch on me and szmanana, later in the direction of the cylinder with water, which stood in the corner. The shaman began to scream at the person, unless it is to get out, or that he has put out the light. Each illuminated by a flashlight shape melted in the air, rozmawyzwal and changing, always in something dark, evil and ugly. Senses began to rampage. I did not know what is happening. Fat Boys the torch human being, I go mad. After this time someone went out, it got dark. In my head throbbed high blood pressure, I felt every Zylka in the skull, neck, arms. Started to creep my legs, from 2 hours sitting in an unchanged position. shaman drew another cigarette designs, each was more bad again, each darker, more real to everyone. I already do not want more, let this thing blows over, you nasty! I could not spit out the words, I was like paralyzed. Female inch wrapped in white robes entered the room in which we were, precious to me backwards, turned sia, she had a bundle in my arms. And in the child. The child had an inch in the face of ulcers, strangely twisted, looked at me with his scary-empty eye sockets and smiled szablastymi long teeth. The figure disappeared, and disappeared in the area, leaving white suffocating smoke. I fell on my back and hit his head on the floor. Luckily, not much. I was lying down lighter, less bad vision. The shaman told me to raise, he said he can not lie. So I sat down. "Finito, Finito, por favor" stammered with each other. The shaman said that has not, as yet can not and continued his work of ... More and louder sing, grabbed my face with one hand and the other started to hit me in the top of the head and shoulders reed sticks, which only deepened the trance. There were more visions, all bad, I will have already described the them, luckily I know that many of them I do not remember. I waited, and it will end, I did everything, so as no longer concentrate, but I had no strength in order to do anything, I could not move, I could not speak, I breathed hard, I could not draw breath, I had more retching. That's lasted at least half an hour before the shaman began to slow down the rhythm.
/ / / Now as of this writing, I also I felt sick, but I'll try this description is completed, as soon as possible ...
Later he came up with a finger under his nose, something like it was, ordered me deeply odychac, pulled what I was expecting to smelling salts or something similar, but I felt nothing. I did not know if I have to speak lest he gave me yet, I did not know what is going to happen. The shaman sang the whole time, and roast. whole time I saw patterns, all the time sank in the red tunnel and drawn by cigarette smoke. Shaman brushed my shirts from the body, intense mint drops sprinkled on my chest, later the tip of the head, neck later. I started to breathe better. Continue to sing even more slowly, slowly walked out of a trance. Suddenly he stopped. He said that he had finished. felt I did not that already done, still saw patterns, still twisted in my head, the floor is still waved. turned out that the room is also Rafael, he said he escorted me into the room, I tried to get up, fell down on his back. Rafael trying a lift me - leave me, give me a moment! I lay there 15 minutes, everything was spinning around, lit a torch, so I saw what is happening around, but I could not move. After several minutes, sat down, I tried to draw out the legs, I had them almost feeling. I threw up again. I felt better. Let's go. I could not get up, Rafael I picked up, based on his arm slowly poses next steps, we flew to left and right, not at all held the balance, and I was heavier than him. The room we had 15 meters on the way I threw up again. I woke up all the furniture and putting the backpack in the room kicking, Rafeal put me on the bed, slipped under the mosquito net. I am safe, already will be good, but I need to sleep! I was lying on his back. Mosquito changed into a white coffin, lay in one's own grave. leaned out the screens in order to throw up again, I managed to luckily no traffic to the shoes. Jared asked - how was it? Tomorrow, a nightmare, I'll tell you tomorrow! Lay back, after several minutes I fell asleep ...
woke up at dawn, after a few hours of sleep. There's already felt, I felt completely normal, except that the did not feel comfortable with this from the room and vomited all stirred up. I was tired, so normally, the lack of sleep. I decided it better to eat breakfast I will not, others wanted to avoid people who were there, and know they will be asking me about everything. I fell asleep, I got up after the 13th, I told the Polish association of shortened versions of what have lived (here you have a much larger version), urging Jarka, but in order to resigned. Actually I had not persuaded. I went to dinner was delicious, rice with chicken, the foreign company have asked me how it was, but I disposed to answer, the more they do not want, me to them at dinner he talked, no one asked a second time. Shortly later, we sailed the little boat peke-peke, and we have made express evacuation from the jungle to Iquitos, and later that day for a plane to Lima. It was not a good day. That day and the next two days I had trouble breathing, other effects of the ceremony was not. Something rare in the life of regret, but regret that, although probably not if I did and did not know that it may be too uncomfortable to regret not used the occasion to meet with a shaman. I do not know why in my case, so will this ceremony rolled - maybe I was too tired, maybe something bad shaman did, maybe it komarzy venom and allergy to it, maybe lari, or maybe it was something in me all these caused the negative and bad feelings. And maybe that's the case, the statistics and I was the one chance in a hundred, a thousand, or are in a million, that something bad will roll ... Shaman have not seen anymore.
Lari ... long wondered whether to take your next dose, hallucinations were caused not by Lari and the shaman and ayahuasca, I wondered whether the sensation of breathlessness in the lungs is not a side effect Lariamu, I took brochure - mention it in the first place. But I had it until after 5 days from the first film, right after the ceremony, so I hope this is not Lari, I hope it was by the ayahuasca. Shortness of breath since past 7-day after my pierwszej tabletce, w dniu kiedy mialem wziac kolejna. Nie wzialem. Dzien pozniej czulem sie zupelnie dobrze. Dalej swedza mnie bable po komarach, dalej czuje jad w kosciach, po drodze pytalem o statystyki zachorowan na malarie w Iquitos - srednio 20 dziennie. Jesli w Przypadku Ayahuasci bylem przypadkiem jednym na milion, lepiej nie bede ryzykowal. Przedwczoraj lyknelismy z Grzechem kolejna dawne Lariamu. Jest OK. Poprzedni tydzien sie skonczyl, zamknelismy ten rozdzial. Bedzie dobrze.
Jestesmy w Ekwadorze, zrobilismy bilans czasu jaki nam pozostal na tym kontynencie. Zweryfikowalismy plany. Dzis planujemy kupic bilety lotnicze do Polski, powinnismy byc w kraju 18 kwietnia.
Co do planow tutaj, rozmawialismy z wieloma ludzmi, pewnie juz surpassing a hundred - none of them was in Venezuela, most security reasons. We hear a lot of history about the people there, whom they assaulted, and corruption, bad people, etc. Many of the tourists was met for this in Colombia, everyone praised how beautiful there that it is not dangerous and the good people. Our friends, learning from the bloggers were also in Colombia, also the glory. Again, a short deliberation combat and fast decision - do not go to Venezuela, we're going to Colombia! From Ecuador we will do a program a minimum, if at all. But before we go to Columbia, we want to see any pets, so we go to the Galapagos Islands, flying on Wednesday! Do not know if there are dolphins, I'm sure you can dive with sharks, apparently does not attack the rustic people, I hope that there will not be rekinich had guests from outside. Although the chance of one in a million there are reportedly in nine cases out of ten! ;)
Anyway, the mood after last week we are already good, we are in Ecuador, there is somehow more civilized than in Peru and Bolivia, at least in the two biggest cities, which have seen hitherto. With practical information - in Ecuador pay American dollars, more people (at least) speak English, have better roads, the food is cheaper than in Peru, and smaller distances. Well, unfortunately, do not operate the cells, so the only contact with us is through email and comments on the blog, you are also encouraged.
this pa
And, no, and a few pics from the jungle ...
Port Naucie
typical Amazon boat
Large peke-peke The boat
"Port" in the Indian village
Moises
peke-peke Mala
carries equipment for the expedition
In the jungle
Alligators
Rafael
and his assistant, sleep potable water to the vine
Dangerous trees
Our river - Yalapa
hordes of mosquitoes
Thanks
sail to the Indian village
In lodge'y
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